Sunday, 13 April 2014

International canoe - King Ferry Canoe company Nethercott hull.

Tons written about the development of this boat, the ultimate evolution of the antique 16/30, updated as a planing hull with a modern rig. This post isnt about their history, development or even current state. This will be an entry about the restoration of my hull, formerly named 'Rosy Cheeks'. Apparently there was a trend of naming the boats to allude to a sore rear end, after having spent much time sliding about on the hiking board.
A modern planing hull, but still 1980s vintage, she wont be competitive from a racing perspective, but thrilling nonetheless. No collection of sailing canoes would be complete without the ultimate evolution of the craft. 
Nethercott lines, fast planing hull

Late 1800s lines, quick but a displacement hull of course
One big sliding seat, still true to the origins of the design. The 10sq metre class evolved directly out of the early 16/30 boats, but Uffa Fox and the first sloop rigged planing hulls in the 1930s changed the design forever.

What we aspire to!

Ballet on water.

Sometimes not so graceful.  I expect to see the underside frequently - I was told that if you want people to recognize your boat, paint the number on the bottom. Seems accurate. 

Yes i should have covered her, but by the time it was too late she was full of snow.

Wicked lines. 

Nice plumb stem, classic. 

Designed for speed....

She will shine, but wont show anymore wood after 'glassing and painting. 

Once she dried out again, the tarp came out to save any further deterioration since the ply was still sound. 

Today we were luck enough to get a call from Rod Mincher, who owned and campaigned Rosy Cheeks, officially US132. He sent a shot of her in her heyday, and might have some more. She'll live to sail again!

Friday, 11 April 2014

New hiking board for the 16/30

I love this boat, and cant resist taking photos of it. During the original build, the intent was to build a sliding seat to run on the seat bridge using leftover ply and pine from the hull build. Problem has been that the tiller posts were cut too short, necessitating that the seat and bridge assembly be low enough so that the crosshead assembly would pass over it.  Terribly uncomfortable for us guys over 6', and who dont bend like they used to. The seat bridge was rushed, and not my best work. I've always wanted to redo it, and with the next week off and wanting to sail more this summer its begun. 

At Killbear, coolest place there is. 

Clatyon, NY with the late Danny Sutherland taking her out for her sea trials after completion, 2007

Killbear again, a great photo by Fitz from Mass. 

The late Jan Gougeon, of West System fame, after sailing her for a few hours

Ugly, quick seat bridge made of ash. Soon to be removed. 

A properly fitted and shaped seat bridge on an original raceboat

Closeup of the sliding seat from the oldie. 

Single board, with ash cleats under to slide along the seat bridge. Not too heavy, not too wide.

Seat bridge will be Sipo, but this African Mahogany board will be our new seat. It will match the coaming, also African Mahogany. 

Dusty old girl, seat bridge ripped off immediately!

Yuck. Early rush effort, the re-do a long time coming. 

New bridge will slot right in, but with increased height. 

Sanding and leveling old varnish

Original seat alongside new seat blank

View of cleats

In place on boat. Much narrower than the original i built, but much prettier and lighter. 

Rails will need relieving, courtesy of the router table. 

An original seat bridge, to be copied.

Mahogany seat bridge parts cut out

African mahogany seat

New, much better than old - higher and lighter

Ash rail stock for under seats 

New cyclonic dust and waste collection. The $175 drum. Whats that, i thought i paid $20 for it? Yup, and add the cell phone ticket some *#@ cop decided to lay on me while i drove out to pick it up.

Cuts the dust much better than any shop vac, and huge capacity.

Paging Dr Freud....

Dry fit

Looking better, historically more accurate as well

Dry fit of rails to check clearances


Secure rails, sand all parts stain and varnish. Then hardware relacation.

Sunday, 6 April 2014

A trailer rebuild for under the 16/30

Why dont i get more time on my 16/30? Good question! likely because its so heavy, around 150lbs, and hard to maneuver on and off a trailer, and into the water. 

The solution? A nice, vintage lightweight trailer. Love those aircraft type full fenders, have to try to find a set. Trailers such as these are light enought to be pulled by any vehicle, and when unhooked can be moved about by hand, taking care of the need for a launch dolly. So we bought one for $150, hard to find since everyone that has one thinks they are worth $500+. Problem is, they are decades old, rusted and with old hardware, old paint and generally in need of a rebuild. 

Ours has lots of rust under lots of paint.

Old worn bearings, tires, and harware

Bumpy roads and some good travel distances dictate we do a complete rebuild, or risk being stranded. 

Air tools, vice grips and smashed knuckles and cuts galore. 

Original brown,under many coats

Getting there, almost ready for the blaster

Next steps, blasting, painting and reassembly.